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Afishianado™ is published quarterly and is the primary means for communicating with our members about current industry and consumer trends, new market research, and sustainable seafood efforts. |
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Afishianado™ - Current IssueAfishianado™ is published five times per year for Seafood Choices Alliance members, keeping you up-to-date on current industry and consumer trends, new market research and sustainable seafood efforts. Click here to subscribe. Read on or click here to download a full color pdf version. April 2008
Cover story: First-of-its-kind Guide des espèces Launches Across French-speaking Europe
This is all set to change with the launch of the Seafood Choices Alliance’s Guide des espèces (“Species Guide”), a French language publication modeled after the Alliance’s popular Sourcing Seafood in the U.S. and soon available in hard copy or pdf online. Guide des espèces fills a similar information void in the French-speaking market, with in-depth data on over 60 of the most consumed species in France, Belgium and Switzerland, such as langoustines, oysters and salmon. The guide also includes testimonials and personal stories from fishermen and other actors across the supply chain. Elisabeth Vallet, European Programme Director, says the Guide des espèces is needed for the French market to sustain the momentum that has been building around responsible fish procurement in France. “Over the past year, we have seen some very exciting developments in the industry: the first French Seafood Champion AGLIA/CNPMEM, and the recent commitment to put forward ten of France’s fisheries for Marine Stewardship Council certification,” says Vallet. “Yet much more can be done if the industry is given concise, consistent information that allows them to make smart choices when sourcing seafood. The Guide des espèces will allow them to act.” Stephanie Mathey, sustainability manager for the French retail giant Carrefour notes, “There is no one place you can find all the information available in order to make smart seafood choices. The Guide des espèces allows to access otherwise complicated, hard-to-find information in one easy step.” Seafood Choices launches the Guide des espèces at its annual reception during the European Seafood Exposition in Brussels, Belgium (click here to see events). Regional launch events will be held throughout 2008. The Alliance plans the release of a similar publication specifically for the U.K. chef and foodservice sector as part of a new program, ‘Good Catch: Cooking for change, serving the future’ launching in summer 2008. Stay tuned for more information, or visit our home page often to keep up with the latest news. To order the Guide des Espèces, please send an email to guidedesespeces (at) seafoodchoices (dot) org with “order” in the subject line of your email, or contact Elisabeth Vallet at +33.1.56.03.54.66. Letter from the Director: Helping You Make the Best Decisions
Solutions to these complex and interrelated issues can often be hard to come by when navigating the intersection of environmental, economic and social responsibility. Many of you have come to Seafood Choices Alliance asking two straightforward questions: “Where do we begin?” and “How do we get out in front on these issues?” As part of our role in convening and connecting leaders in the sustainable seafood movement, Seafood Choices Alliance is working to illuminate where the answers lie. We put you together with experts—from academia, government, the conservation community or another segment of this industry—and deliver new information that can help you make the best decisions. This spring we launch a suite of new tools that fill some of the gaps in information and help buyers locate sources and suppliers. Whether it’s our first-ever species guide tailored to French-speaking Europe (see cover story above), new polling research on the U.S. marketplace or our workshops on corporate responsibility guidelines (see Guest's Corner, below), we are hopeful that these tools prove useful in the ongoing journey towards sustainability. In the meantime, we hope to see many of you in Brussels, connect at one our upcoming workshops. Regards,
Guest’s Corner: New Responsibility Guidelines for the Processing SectorSeafood is the most traded food commodity in the world, and half of its export value originates in developing countries to a value greater than tea, rice, cocoa and coffee combined. Seafood is also an important part of the food-processing sector with unique sustainability issues like marine biodiversity. The Global Reporting Initiative—a non-profit multi-stakeholder network of business, civil society, labor, investors, accountants and others—has developed the most widely used sustainability-reporting framework in the world. GRI is now launching a new Food Processing Sector Supplement aimed at enabling food processors to better measure and communicate economic, environmental and social performance. Against this background, Seafood Choices Alliance and GRI recently embarked on a two-year partnership to help develop sustainability reporting indicators relevant to the seafood processing industry. The GRI Seafood Workshops will be open to seafood processors, NGOs, experts, fishery management organizations, governments and other stakeholders, and organized to secure input from a diverse range of geographic regions. The partnership aims to help ensure a new global tool to support positive, responsible management in the seafood-processing sector, which may ultimately contribute to a more sustainable global seafood supply chain. If you experience daily decision-making within corporate responsibility or sustainable development in the seafood processing industry, or are a stakeholder to the sector, your contribution would be genuinely valuable in helping developing the new guidelines. Please join us in this effort. To find out more or register for a GRI Seafood Workshop near you, click here or send an email. Anna Roslund (M.Sc.) is Sustainability Manager of FoodVest Group (Young’s Seafood and Findus) and has been seconded to Seafood Choices Alliance to lead the workshops. Previously, she has worked for Findus France and Nestle Scandinavia.
All About… Wild Shrimp
Trawl fisheries can catch large amounts of unwanted marine life—some put this “bycatch” as high as 10 pounds (4.5 kg) per one pound of shrimp caught—though use of selective technology in the last decade has dramatically reduced bycatch in some instances. Trawling also damages habitat when dragged on hard bottom over sensitive habitats. Conservation groups recommend the following wild shrimp fisheries as sustainable, meaning the fishery is well managed and measures are taken to reduce environmental impacts. Nephrops (Nephrops norvegicus): Known in the United Kingdom as langoustine, Dublin bay prawn or Norway lobster, the Loch Torridon creel or trap fishery in northwest Scotland is certified as sustainable to the Marine Stewardship Council (MSC) standard. The majority of the 100 to 150 tonnes catch is exported live to continental Europe to meet high demand for this valuable species. In the Biscayne Bay, from the westernmost point of Brittany to the Island of Oléron, 250 boats trawl for langoustines. The fishery, which trawls on muddy seabed, was allowed to catch 4,320 tonnes in 2007 and the total allowable catch remains the same for 2008. Availability: Year round, October though January best quality. Northern Shrimp (Pandalus borealis): The most abundant species in the Pandalidae family, the northern shrimp is found in the cold waters of the northern oceans. Most of the shrimp is caught using otter trawls, which do not catch sea turtles and use devices that minimize bycatch. Canada is a major producer of the shrimp, catching 136,000 metric tons per year—more than half of which is landed off Newfoundland. The Gulf of St. Lawrence and Canadian Atlantic P. borealis fisheries, both of which are undergoing MSC assessment, run April through November, with peak landings in June through August. New England shrimp fishing begins in December and usually lasts four to six weeks; Maine’s fishermen alone catch about 2,200 metric tons per year. Oregon Pink Shrimp (Pandalus jordani): This cold-water shrimp species ranges from Alaska’s Aleutian Islands to San Diego, California. Concentrated off Oregon, this is predominantly a trawl fishery, but has less impact than tropical trawl fisheries as the gear does not have full contact with the seafloor. This fishery is certified as sustainable by the MSC. Availability: Oregon pink shrimp is fished April through October. [Editor's note: In the print edition of this issue, we incorrectly stated that the fishery was still "undergoing assessment".] Spot Shrimp/Prawn: Several species of these big (nearly 12 inches/30.5 cm) coldwater shrimp are caught primarily from Washington State to Alaska. All spot prawns caught on the U.S. West Coast are trap caught, considered a sustainable fishing method, and catches in recent years have been at near-record levels. Availability: Spring and summer in British Columbia; June through August in Washington; year round in Alaska. For more information about environmentally sustainable choices—and to locate suppliers—visit Smart Choices.
Seasonal Scoop: Common GroundsSpring for these choices, which appear in both North American and European markets. And be sure to check out menu trends, below. Razor clams: One of three principal types of bivalve found in British waters, razor clams are found in intertidal waters. In recent years, a lucrative diver-based fishery for razor clams has emerged in Scotland, particularly off the west coast. Now there is a growing interest in the use of hydraulic dredges for their collection, which is raising concerns of sustainability. In North America, razor clams are found from California to Alaska, though only a handful of beaches have populations large enough to sustain commercial take. Peak season is spring or summer in Pacific Northwest, May through September in Scotland. Mackerel: Several important members of the Scombridae family are fished commercially. Species relevant to the U.S. and Canada include king mackerel (Scomberomorus cavalla), Spanish mackerel (Scomberomorus maculates) and chub mackerel (Scomber japonicus). Atlantic mackerel (Scomber scombrus) is caught on both sides of the ocean. The U.K.’s South West handline fishery is MSC certified. Horse and chub mackerels are featured in the Guide des espèces. Mackerels are caught using mid-water trawls, gillnets, cast nets, and hook-and-line. Bycatch is generally not an issue in these fisheries because mackerel are schooling fish caught in the upper level of the water column. The best mackerel is landed in trap or handline fisheries in the summer and fall, when the fish have high oil content. Herring and sardines: Herring from Thames Blackwater, North Sea and Eastern English Channel are all MSC-certified. According to the Marine Conservation Society, the best choice is pilchard (sold as Cornish sardines) caught in coastal waters off Cornwall in the South West of England using traditional drift or ring nets. In the eastern North Atlantic, herring’s range extends from the Baltic Sea to the Northern Bay of Biscay, and around Iceland. Western North Atlantic herring range from Greenland and Labrador to South Carolina. Atlantic herring appears to have recovered after years of overfishing. While traditional herring purse seine fisheries have low bycatch, mid-water trawl fisheries may catch both seabirds and marine mammals. No such bycatch, however, has been observed in this fishery. Pickled herring is imported to the U.S. from Europe, where herring are smaller and have a flavor more conducive to pickling. When cured, herring takes on the taste of the curing flavors and has a firm texture. Read more about cured fish below. To learn about other great options, visit our Smart Choices.
What’s Hot… Summer Cure-allRestaurants & Institutions recently noted that mixed grills are “ideal vehicles for offering multiple proteins and for introducing ethnic influences.” Cured, smoked and pickled foods are “riding a wave of interest in big flavors with an artisan touch,” says Flavor and the Menu. Properly cured seafood takes time and expertise not available to most home cooks. “I think cured products are one of the best ways to maximize the craft of cooking,” says DC chef/owner Barton Seaver, a 2008 Seafood Champion whose menu changes frequently to reflect what is in season and available from fishermen. Maine chef/owner Sam Hayward agrees, noting he has smoked “just about everything that might reasonably expect to benefit from a dose of smoke,” including scallops, char, Alaskan butterfish,haddock, smelts, shad, herring and sardines (see Seasonal Scoop above). Curing is universal and offers versatility – from hot or cold smoked farmed sturgeon and wild salmon gravlax to Korean kimchi and pickle-smoked fish (a good way to enhance the taste of lean fish that do not otherwise smoke well, according to Seafood Norway). Click here to read the expanded spotlight feature on North American menu trends and communicating sustainability.
2008 Seafood Champions: Showcasing Sustainability on Both Sides of the Atlantic
The Association du Grand Littoral Atlantique (AGLIA) working with the French Comité National des Pêches Maritimes et des Elevages Marins has promoted selective devices to reduce the catch of undersize nephrops and other marine life. Together, the organizations have successfully engaged all the fishermen from the nephrops’ fishery, about 250 trawlers in the Bay of Biscay, to positive result. “We have worked hard to change the mentality of fishermen,” says Hugues Autret, president of the Comité. “We have to understand that resources are not unlimited. We want our children to do the same job that we did.” “Sustainability is not just a choice of farming technique, it is a social movement to benefit our future generations,” agrees Sally Eason, owner of Sunburst Trout. In Canton, North Carolina, Sunburst Trout has a constant eye on conservation. Regionally and nationally, Eason and her company are strong voices for promoting economic and sustainable growth in aquaculture. Mike Mitchell is an expert in seafood traceability and sustainability with Foodvest in the United Kingdom with over 25 years of experience in the seafood industry. He helped establish Young’s as the number one provider of MSC products to the UK’s retail sector. Additionally, he bridges the science and fishing sectors through his work with the European Seafood Processors Association (AIPCE). Executive chef Barton Seaver and his team at Washington, D.C.’s Hook Restaurant embody seafood sustainability for the restaurant industry. Hook is a sustainable, fish-focused restaurant opened by Seaver in spring 2007. In that short time, Seaver and his staff have won a reputation for creative sustainability by embracing responsibly sourced fish species and by utilizing the restaurant as a forum for educating diners. After witnessing many of the problems in the seafood industry at the Fish Auction of Scheveningen in the Netherlands, Bart van Olphen opened Fishes, the first continental European retail fish shop to obtain MSC Chain of Custody Certification. Van Olphen has since expanded Fishes to a wholesale company focused exclusively on MSC-certified fish, and retail branches can now be found in Holland, Germany and Belgium. Chicago-based Plitt Company was an early supporter of the Marine Stewardship Council, and played an integral part at Seafood Summit 2004. According to Plitt’s president, Tim Lathrop, that a group of conservationists and a member of industry could enter into a constructive dialogue “seemed unlikely at the time.” “To receive a Seafood Champion award a mere four years later,” says Lathrop, “clarifies that not only can industry and conservation get along but together we can achieve real and lasting change.” To date, the Alliance has recognized 16 Seafood Champions. Learn more about this year’s recipients.
Trends to Watch: Sweet on Eco-AwarenessJust as wild salmon have inspired conservation in the North American west, the ayu (or sweetish, a small trout) may be inspiring a similar ethic in Japan. Dam construction has seriously affected its habitat, according to the Yamasa Institute, which attributes the impact of the man-made structures on the ayu as one of the causes of the growing environmental awareness in Japan. A popular recreational fish, ayu is also fished commercially in large numbers, and is found from Hokkaido, Japan southward to the Korean Peninsula, China, and Taiwan.
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For a complete listing of sustainable seafood events and trade shows, visit our Events page.
Afishianado™ is a bimonthly publication and a trademark of Seafood Choices Alliance. The Alliance thanks The David and Lucile Packard Foundation for its generous support of this publication. Editor: Joey Brookhart All inquiries should be directed by email to info(at)seafoodchoices(dot)org.
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Sustainability in the seafood marketplace—it is prevalent in the United Kingdom, widely accepted in Germany, trendy in the United States and is on the cusp of becoming the next big thing in France. Belgium is also heavily invested in the issue, and Switzerland has an active NGO community working with major Swiss retailers. Increasingly, French, Belgian and Swiss seafood professionals from the retail, restaurant and supply sectors have expressed interest in responsible fish procurement. Yet until now, the French-speaking marketplace has lacked the informational tools to help buyers navigate the complexities of responsible seafood purchasing. 
As I reflect on the annual 
Shrimp is a popular choice for seafood lovers in Asia, North America and Europe. While there are many species of wild and farm-raised prawns around the world, only a few can be enjoyed with a clean environmental conscience. In this issue, we focus on the wild side. 
Seafood Choices Alliance presented its annual Seafood Champion Awards to six outstanding international leaders in front of a crowded reception during the Boston Seafood Show. “The 2008 Champions are part of a select group of individuals and companies who are demonstrating around the world that environmental and economic goals go hand-in-hand,” says the Alliance’s Mike Boots. © 2006 Seafood Choices Alliance